Trip Reports

Joffre Central Couloir - June 15

• Posted on June 30, 2008 at 1:34 AM
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Alpen Glow on the Entrance

“Joffre Central Couloir”

With snow storms in the Rockies and rain in PG, JM and I turned to the Duffy Lake Rd. to fill our appetite for the alpine. Immediately after work on Friday we packed the car, bought $22 of M&M's(accidentally), and proceeded on our way. My car is not particularly reliable and the Duffy is unforgiving so we each mile that passed as we headed south was a victory. We arrived in the parking lot at about 0300, at which point we promptly passed out. 2 hours later the sun poked its head over the mountains and we began the hike into the hut.Very little snow was left on the summer trail and we made good time to the hut. Upon arrival we promptly went back to sleep. After a real rest we headed out to recon the couloir and create a boot pack for ourselves for the approach in the dark. This planning and preparation was a first for both of us. Back to the hut we went feeling good about travel and route conditions. Several more hours of sleep put us at 0200. Roll out. Our boot pack turned out to be awesome and turned night time route finding into a simple, quick, task. Who knew preparation and planning could feel so good. The morning alpenglow hit the North Face just as we left the glacier and entered the couloir. The route was in fantastic condition and simul-climbing made for short work of the first 700ft. The bottom pitches got hammered pretty hard with rock and snow about two hours after we were clear. The final two pitches consisted of wet, melting snow, sloppily plastered to steep rock and ice. After this a short scramble put us on the summit.

The descent was an adventure in and of itself. Perfect snow allowed for a rapid descent of the standard route. A bit of snow, a bit of 4th, and a lot of sliding. The runnels down the face made for fantastic slides and cut the descent time significantly. It was not so much a glissade as it was water sliding experience.

Back to the hut. Pack. Eat some chocolate. Get out of dodge. An uneventful drive home rounded out a fantastic weekend of climbing.